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FAQs

We have compiled a list of our Allett FAQs – you will find answers to the questions we get asked the most, when looking to purchase an Allett Mower.

If you don’t find the answer you are looking for within our FAQ’s, please get in touch with us here.

We have compiled a list of our Allett FAQs – you will find answers to the questions we get asked the most, when looking to purchase an Allett Mower.

If you don’t find the answer you are looking for within our FAQ’s, please get in touch with us here.

Where can I find my nearest dealer?

You can use our dealer locator to find your nearest dealer! Simply type in your postcode and select a distance away from you (we would suggest 10 miles at first). All the Allett dealers within your are will then show on a map for you.

Please note: Some are stocking/ non stocking so we advise that you give us a call before you visit, to ensure stock availability!

How do I change a cartridge in my Allett HomeOwner machine?

To change your cartridges, you’ll firstly need to remove the cartridge:

  • Using the allen key provided with the machine, remove the hex head screws from the side cover.
  • Slacken and remove the three screws retaining the pulley to the cartridge. Let the belt slip away from the top pulley.
  • Remove the grass box cradle and the remaining hex head screws with an allen key.
  • Remove plastic gear with a 24mm spanner and put on the new pulley mounting bracket, so that it will be the same as the cartridge just removed, and fit new end.
  • Place in the machine and replace all hex head screws, belt and size cover.

We have a list of videos on our YouTube channel or on our MowerHelp page within our site.

Do you sell direct?

Unfortunately, we don’t sell direct. However, we do have a nationwide network of dealers that look after all our sales within our Professional (Sports) and Homewear ranges

How much is the 'X' mower?

Prices can vary in different countries, so to find the most accurate price of the product please ring your local dealer.

Which cartridges will fit my mower?

To see which cartridges will fit your mower, find your product and view the specification table. The product accessories available for each mower can be found under the product information.

What do the different cartridges do?

There are many different cartridges available to carry out different lawn maintenance tasks. Firstly, you’ll need to determine which market you are looking at (Homeowner or Sports Pro) and click on Accessories. Within each accessory’s description, you’ll find which tasks each are intended for.

Where can I buy a part?

To buy parts, contact the dealer you bought the machine from. If a professional enquiry, contact Allett here.

What mower would you recommend?

Our recommendations would depend on the size of your lawn, and whether you would require access to a total lawncare system. However, to give you an idea, take a look at our comparison chart at the back of the domestic brochure.

Can I buy a mower with a 10 blade cutting cartridge?

All of our machines leave the factory as standard. You can purchase an additional 10 bladed cartridge from your local dealer.

What is the height of cut for a particular mower?

This information can be found in the ‘product specification’ table on our website, on each product page.

How big is the machine/ Will it fit in my shed?

You can find this information in ‘product specifications’ on each product page. If you need any further advice however, please contact Allett on 01889 271503

What height should I be cutting? I don't want to mow every week.

Reply from PitchCare:
A typical height of cut for a good relatively level garden lawn is anywhere between 15 – 20 mm. Irregular mowing at lower heights of cut will shock the grass plant and reduce its rate of growth, but at the risk of a) having an unsightly lawn, and b) potentially causing the death of the grass plant if a extreme weather event such as a prolonged dry period occurs.

Is there a power difference between the Kensington electric and petrol versions?

Yes. The petrol machines have larger engines of over 1500W, compared with the electric 380W. The Petrol Kensington should be chosen if you have a larger lawn, and if you intend doing a lot of scarifying. The Electric model is great where a smaller lighter mower is required for a small lawn where a trailing cable is not a problem.

I've got pretty bad moss in part of the lawn but its a quite small area. How deep does the scarifyer go? Does that aerate as well or do I have to do that separately?

Reply from PitchCare:
Moss grows on the surface, so you won’t need to scarilfy really deeply to rake out the moss. Before you do any scarification, however, you should treat the moss with a proprietary moss killer and wait until the moss appears dead. If you scarify your lawn without first killing the moss you are likely to spread dormant moss spores further afield, which will grow as soon as the conditions favour them. The scarification action will improve airflow around the canopy of the turf, and will improve surface drainage and general plant growth to a degree, as it is removing dead unwanted organic matter. Scarification will not aerate the soil to any great depth, this will have to be carried out separately if required.

Does it matter what time of day I mow my lawn? I've been told it's better in the morning. Is that true?

Reply from PitchCare:
The best time to mow the lawn is when it is dry, the time of day is not a major factor. Sunlight quality is better for grass growth in the early morning, as it has a higher proportion of the blue end of the Photosynthetically Active Radiation spectrum as the sun appears over the horizon, perhaps that’s how you have arrived at mowing in the morning being better for the turf grass?

I've decided that I want a cylinder mower but need to choose a model. Is the 10-blade upgrade worth getting for a smallish lawn about 10m x 15m? Will I still get stripes with the standard 5 or 6 blades?

Reply from PitchCare:
The general rule of thumb is you have more blades the lower the height of cut you have. A ten bladed cylinder would be used on areas such as a cricket wicket, a bowling green, and a golf green, which are cut at heights of 3 – 5 mm or less. An eight bladed cylinder would be more than adequate for a garden lawn. If you want to achieve a striped finish, the mower needs to have a roller fitted, irrespective of the type of cut or number of blades.

What's the benefit of upgrading to a scarifying cartridge? I normally just mow when it needs it, weed all the time and use a fork to puncture the surface before fertiliser.

If you want a great lawn, it’s not enough just to mow regularly, although that is a great start. You need to carry out other operations such as fertilising (growing plants require food) and scarifying. Scarifying removes the build up of the thatch which you are removing with your raking operation. But to do this regularly and without the sweat, buy and insert an interchangeable scarifier cartridge for your Allett mower. This collects the uprisings whilst at the same time giving a clean finish.

There's a dry patch in the corner of my lawn that gets very little sun. It's also under a conifer. What can I do to get grass to grow here?

Reply from PitchCare:
Grass really struggles to grow under conifers due to the competition for light, water, and nutrients from the conifer, and depending on the species, whether or not it is dropping needles that smother the turf. The only way to you can improve soil moisture retention in a case like this is to add organic matter to the soil, this can be applied as a dressing and worked into the surface. It may also be possible, but unlikely, that you have a hydrophobic layer (water repellent coating) on your soil, known as dry patch. To counter this will require spiking the area of turf to ensure water penetrates into the soil, and apply a very dilute detergent solution to the area. This will act like a ‘wetting agent’ used by professional amenity specialists and will help break down the hydrophobic coating on the soil.

My lawn is quite uneven - actually very lumpy - making it hard to mow. What's the best way to get it level? Add to the top or dig a bit out or both?

Reply from PitchCare:
This is a common problem, the high points get scalped, and the grass in the low points look too long. Put the two together and you end up with a patchwork quilt look to your lawn. The solution depends on the severity of the problem, and how much effort you want to make to arrive at a satisfactory lawn. Shallow hollows can be filled with topdressing to make them level, but before you fill the hollows it is better to scarify the lawn first, so that the topdressing keys into the lawn. Noticeable high spots should first have the turf removed, then remove the mound and replace the turf. An easier solution still is to use a mower with a wide roller, which will straddle the humps and hollows; there may be a few scrapes on the high spots initially, and the lawn will still feel uneven underfoot, but you will achieve an easy to mow lawn that appears to be level.

What's the best way to get rid of moss in my lawn? And what time of year should I do this?

Reply from PitchCare:
Moss thrives in damp shady turf, or when drainage is inadequate. Prevention is better than cure. If you can minimize the amount of shade cast onto your lawn and improve air circulation across the lawn by cutting back overhanging tree branches and thinning out surrounding hedging or shrubs you should see a reduction in the damp conditions. For moss that is already established, it will require a proprietary moss killer, which usually incorporates a weed and feed component. Of course there is the old traditional remedy of Lawn Sand which is a mix of sulphate of iron and sulphate of ammonia. Lawn sand works well, but be careful to follow the manufacturers guidelines as it will quickly scorch your lawn if you apply too much. For all moss control treatments you require the grass to be actively growing.

How many times should you aerate the lawn per year?

Reply from PitchCare:
The frequency of aeration depends on a few factors. The soil type you have, the amount of wear the lawn receives, and the type of lawn you are trying to achieve. Clay dominant soils will tend to compact more easily than sand dominant soils. Compacted soils will affect drainage, gaseous exchange, root growth, and influence the type of grass that will grow, often encouraging shallow rooted weed grass varieties. If you have a soil that will readily compact and it receives a lot of wear (compaction) it will require more frequent aeration. Typically an average garden lawn would only need to be aerated once or twice per year; more in high wear areas. If you are growing a hard wearing utility lawn, once or twice would be sufficient. If, however, you are growing a fine leaved ornamental lawn, the frequency should be increased to help maximize the health of the desired grass plants so that can out compete any weed grasses present.