You can use our dealer locator to find your nearest dealer! Simply type in your postcode and select a distance away from you (we would suggest 20 miles at first). All the Allett dealers within your are will then show on a map for you.

Please note: Some are stocking/ non stocking so we advise that you give us a call before you visit, to ensure stock availability!

See our help page How to Change a Cartridge.

Yes, we do however we would love you to buy from your local Allett Dealer. Visit our Shop to order from us direct.

Visitors from the UK can visit our Shop for the latest delivered prices on our mowers. Prices can vary in different countries, so if you live outside of the UK please ring your local Allett dealer to find the most accurate price of the product.

To see which cartridges will fit your mower, find your product and view the specification table. We also have more information on cartridges here.

There are many different cartridges available to carry out different lawn maintenance tasks. Firstly, you'll need to determine which market you are looking at (Homeowner or Sports Pro?) and then take a look at Homeowner Cartridges or Sports Pro Cartridges. Within each accessory's description, you'll find which tasks each are intended for.

To puchase parts please contact your local Allett dealer you bought your machine from. You can find them on our dealer locator.

Our recommendations would depend on the size of your lawn, and whether you would require access to a total lawncare system. However, to give you an idea, take a look at our comparison chart at the back of the domestic brochure.

All of our homeowner machines leave the factory as standard with a 6 blade cartridge. You can purchase an additional 10 bladed cartridge from your local dealer or our Shop. Have a word with your local dealer- they may be interested in doing a deal for a 10 blade instead of a 6 as standard.

This information can be found in the product specification table on our website, on each product page.

You can find this information in product specifications on each product page. If you need any further advice however, please contact Allett on 01889 271503

Reply from pitchcare.com:

A typical height of cut for a good relatively level garden lawn is anywhere between 15 and 20 mm. Irregular mowing at lower heights of cut will shock the grass plant and reduce its rate of growth, but at the risk of a) having an unsightly lawn, and b) potentially causing the death of the grass plant if an extreme weather event such as a prolonged dry period occurs.

Reply from PitchCare:

Moss grows on the surface, so you won't need to scarify really deeply to rake out the moss. Before you do any scarification, however, you should treat the moss with a proprietary moss killer and wait until the moss appears dead. If you scarify your lawn without first killing the moss you are likely to spread dormant moss spores further afield, which will grow as soon as the conditions favour them. The scarification action will improve airflow around the canopy of the turf, and will improve surface drainage and general plant growth to a degree, as it is removing dead unwanted organic matter. Scarification will not aerate the soil to any great depth, this will have to be carried out separately if required.

Reply from PitchCare:

The best time to mow the lawn is when it is dry, the time of day is not a major factor. Sunlight quality is better for grass growth in the early morning, as it has a higher proportion of the blue end of the Photosynthetically Active Radiation spectrum as the sun appears over the horizon, perhaps that's how you have arrived at mowing in the morning being better for the turf grass?

The general rule of thumb is you have more blades the lower the height of cut you have. A ten bladed cylinder would give you a golf green finish. A six bladed cylinder would be more than adequate for a garden lawn. If you want to achieve a striped finish, the mower needs to have a roller fitted, irrespective of the type of cut or number of blades. Remember- the optimum height of cut for strong stripes is 20-30mm.

If you want a great lawn, it's not enough just to mow regularly, although that is a great start. You need to carry out other operations such as fertilising (growing plants require food) and scarifying. Scarifying removes the build up of the thatch which you are removing with your raking operation. But to do this regularly and without the sweat, buy and insert an interchangeable scarifier cartridge for your Allett mower. This collects the uprisings whilst at the same time giving a clean finish.

Reply from PitchCare:

Grass really struggles to grow under conifers due to the competition for light, water, and nutrients from the conifer, and depending on the species, whether or not it is dropping needles that smother the turf. The only way to you can improve soil moisture retention in a case like this is to add organic matter to the soil, this can be applied as a dressing and worked into the surface. It may also be possible, but unlikely, that you have a hydrophobic layer (water repellent coating) on your soil, known as dry patch. To counter this will require spiking the area of turf to ensure water penetrates into the soil, and apply a very dilute detergent solution to the area. This will act like a wetting agent used by professional amenity specialists and will help break down the hydrophobic coating on the soil.

Reply from PitchCare:

This is a common problem, the high points get scalped, and the grass in the low points look too long. Put the two together and you end up with a patchwork quilt look to your lawn. The solution depends on the severity of the problem, and how much effort you want to make to arrive at a satisfactory lawn. Shallow hollows can be filled with topdressing to make them level, but before you fill the hollows it is better to scarify the lawn first, so that the topdressing keys into the lawn. Noticeable high spots should first have the turf removed, then remove the mound and replace the turf. An easier solution still is to use a mower with a wide roller, which will straddle the humps and hollows; there may be a few scrapes on the high spots initially, and the lawn will still feel uneven underfoot, but you will achieve an easy to mow lawn that appears to be level.

Reply from PitchCare:

The frequency of aeration depends on a few factors. The soil type you have, the amount of wear the lawn receives, and the type of lawn you are trying to achieve. Clay dominant soils will tend to compact more easily than sand dominant soils. Compacted soils will affect drainage, gaseous exchange, root growth, and influence the type of grass that will grow, often encouraging shallow rooted weed grass varieties. If you have a soil that will readily compact and it receives a lot of wear (compaction) it will require more frequent aeration. Typically an average garden lawn would only need to be aerated once or twice per year; more in high wear areas. If you are growing a hard wearing utility lawn, once or twice would be sufficient. If, however, you are growing a fine leaved ornamental lawn, the frequency should be increased to help maximise the health of the desired grass plants so that can out compete any weed grasses present.